DOS MANOS TRAVEL

• » Home page
• » About dos manos
• » Newsletter
• » Travel Testimonials
• » Travel News
• » Vacancies
• » Work with us
• » Our blog

TRAVEL & SERVICES

• » Activities & Excursions
• » Hotels
• » Tours & packages

ARGENTINA INFORMATION

• » About Buenos Aires
• » Argentina history
• » Argentine society
• » Festival calendar
• » Floura and fauna
• » Responsible tourism in Argentina
• » Typical food & beverages
• » Travel to Argentina tips
• » What to do - active in Argentina
• » Why Argentina
• » Photo tour

TRAVEL
DESTINATIONS

• » Bariloche
• » Buenos Aires
• » Cafayate
• » Cordoba
• » Mendoza
• » Rosario
• » Salta
• » San Miguel de Tucumán
• » Ushuaia

Argentina At a Glance

If any country deserves the label 'land of extremes' then Argentina does. This vast country occupying a large chunk of southern South America is topographically diverse and infinitely enchanting. From the snow-capped peaks and glaciers of the Andes to the dusty plains of Patagonia, Argentina never fails to amaze. Whether exploring the lush rainforest of Missiones, horse riding in the scorched red mountains of Salta, trekking the turquoise lakes and evergreen forests of the Lake District or playing the gaucho in the fertile Pampas, the country is one of ceaseless wonder and boundless adventure.

At the heart of all this is the capital city Buenos Aires. Unfairly described as a grimy Paris, Buenos Aires is a smart, contemporary city that is full of life and bursting with energy. While the spirit of the tango is alive and well and the gaucho heritage is celebrated, modern Argentina is more cosmopolitan in its outlook than many South American countries.

The people of Argentina are warm, friendly and open to visitors. Despite a dark period of military dictatorship and a series of economic crises, the Argentines have a tenacious spirit and lust for life that is infectious. This passion shines through in the nation's great loves of football, food and partying. There is never a dull moment in Argentina and visitors are beginning to discover the opportunities. The tourism industry is booming and deservedly so: the country begs to be explored and experienced.

Café Tortoni, The Most Famous Café in Buenos Aires

The café Tortoni  it is probably the most famous café in Buenos Aires. It is a tourist attraction for people who aren’t even going to sit down to have a cup of coffee.

El Tortoni is located a few blocks west from the Casa Rosada (the government building), on Avenida de Mayo, one of the most important avenues of the city, the most representative of the city’s culture and also one of the most beautiful paths.

The café was founded in 1858 by Jean Touan, a French immigrant who took the name of a successful café of Paris. Originally, the Tortoni was around the corner, where the plaza Roberto Arlt is currently located. Then, it was moved to calle Rivadavia and its entrance on Avenida de Mayo was opened in 1880. Due to its decoration and architecture composed of high columns, old photos, paintings and sculptures, as well as the waiters and the traditional city’s clients, this place became the most famous café of Buenos Aires and one of the city’s symbols.

In 2008, The Tortoni celebrated its 150 years. Besides the extensive list of famous guests which every notable bar must have, such as Borges, Pirandello, Rubinstein, Cortázar, García Lorca, the Kings of Spain, Hillary Clinton, Francis Ford Coppola, and many others, the Tortoni is frequented by office workers of the downtown area, politicians, artists, tango people and, nowadays, thousands of local and international tourists.

Lining up is necessary in order to visit the Tortoni. Tango and Jazz bands play almost every day. Within the menu of the bar, the most typical dishes of the city’s gastronomy are found, but also some products which are not found in other places, such as the leche merengada (whipped milk) and chocolate con churros (hot chocolate milk with a local pastry).

Anyway, you are not really coming here for the food, are you? Of course not, you come here for the ambiance, the history and to be able to tell your friends back home you had a drink at one of the coolest cafes in the world. 

China - Argentina to boost tourism cooperation

China and Argentina will reinforce bilateral tourism exchanges to promote cooperation, tourism officials from the two countries said here Tuesday.

Argentine Tourism Minister Enrique Meyer said that he was confident that an increasing number of Chinese tourists would visit Argentina as more cultural events would be held to boost tourism exchanges between the two sides.

Meyer made the remarks when meeting with Wang Yan, deputy chief of the National Tourism Administration of China (CNTA).

For her part, Wang said that Chinese people "have a lot of interests" in knowing Argentina, its culture, folklore and customs.

About 15,000 Chinese tourists visited Argentina in 2009. In the first several months of this year, the number of Chinese tourists to Argentina registered a rise of more than 25 percent compared with the same period last year.

A place where art and champagne meet

Cruz de Piedra, an attractive winery in Maipú

WineSur had the chance to visit Cruz de Piedra winery, located in Maipú, Mendoza. The winery’s history, its modern and warm facilities, as well as its gentle wines, turned the visit into a very special day.

Just at the foot of the Andes Mountains, surrounded by 30-year-old vineyards, lies the winery Cruz de Piedra. Its history dates back to the early seventies, when it was opened under the name of Bodega San Telmo. The company was pioneer in the varietal production, reproducing the winemaking process from California with the same grape and a style that is still used.

A complete tour

Luis Chaluleu, General Manager of Cruz de Piedra, met us in the modern and recently opened offices. Then, he started telling us the beginnings of Cruz de Piedra. "The winery was opened by Sigifredo Alonso. After going round California, Alonso decided to start producing his own wines.  Looking for the best lands and weather, eventually, he decided to settle in Cruz de Piedra. The building of the winery started in the middle of the seventies and the first harvest was carried out in 1980.

In 1983, under the name Bodega San Telmo, the varietal history started in Argentina with the launch of the brands San Telmo and Cuesta del Madero," explained Chaluleu. In 1997, the multinational Seagrams, then acquired by Diageo, bought these brands and the winery remained just in charge of the production. "Fortunately, in March 2009, the winery recovered its emblematic brand Cuesta del Madero", added Chaluleu. "Today, 35 years old after Sigifredo’s dream started, Alonso family’s second generation keeps looking for quality and innovation in the Argentinian viticulture."

The tour continued through all the winery’s facilities: 30-year-old noble vineyards that can be seen from a panoramic view, fermentation rooms where wines from Cruz the Piedra and other national wineries are produced, and tasting rooms. Inside the winery, there are huge vitreaux surrounded by a simple Mediterranean architecture that grants a beautiful and warm atmosphere.

Without doubts, one of the main attractions of the winery is its aging room with capacity for 1,000 Malbec bottles and 1,000 Cabernet Sauvignon bottles from every harvest that the winery has performed since 1983. Daniel Ekkert and Esteban Castel, winemakers of Cruz de Piedra, maintain that "this aging room is in honor of those who have put everything into producing every wine throughout history." Moreover, the winery expects to launch a series of collection wines from these harvests at some stage.

Argentina's Bi-Bicentennial

Argentina may be unique among the world’s nations in celebrating two independence days. The first is 25 de Mayo (May 25th), which coincides with the 1810 Revolution that declared the Spanish viceroy in Buenos Aires illegitimate (because the government that appointed him no longer existed), and marked a starting point for the South American wars of independence. The second is 9 de Julio (July 9th), which corresponds to the date at which the United Provinces of the River Plate (forerunner of contemporary Argentina) declared formal independence at the city of San Miguel de Tucumán in 1816.

Argentina has chosen to celebrate the former date, barely a month away, for its bicentennial. To that end, it’s undertaken an ambitious program of modernization and upgrades for many of the country’s top cultural attractions: the Teatro Colón and San Telmo’s Museo de Arte Moderno, among others, and privately run institutions such as Palermo’s Museo Evita. It’s also meant, at the same time, that these sights have been either closed or open only by limited access for much of the last year (or, in the case of the Colón, for several years). Surrounded by scaffolding, they’re barely visible, though the Colón, at least, has a temporary Centro Vivencial (visitor center) to suggest what the rejuvenated opera house will be like when it reopens.

That grand reopening is due take place May 25th, with the traditional presidential command performance with, presumably, the popular guided tours due to resume shortly thereafter. The Museo de Arte Moderno, though, is well behind schedule and will not reopen until late this year, probably for the start of the spring tourist season in October or so. Despite the scaffolding, the Museo Evita remains open, along with its highly regarded restaurant.

For those of you who can’t visit Argentina this year, Argentina may be coming to you - at least to those of you who live in or around Washington D.C. In honor of the bicentennial, the Smithsonian Institution is hosting a series entitled “Argentina at the Smithsonian 2010,” with a diversity of events that will include tango (both live and on film), popular music, lectures on topics such as wine and the military dictatorship of 1976-83, and poetry. Art events will include a meet-the-artist interview with Guillermo Kuitca and a “Contemporary Argentine Masterworks” exhibition that will include figures such as León Ferrari. Whether the masterworks will include the controversial Ferrari’s “Christian and Western Civilization," a protest against the bombing of Vietnam that depicts Christ crucified on a diving F-105 fighter jet, is uncertain (I have visited Ferrari in his Buenos Aires apartment, and it’s hard to reconcile this soft-spoken 90-year-old man with such outspoken protest).

For those unable to visit either Argentina or the Smithsonian in 2010, meanwhile, there’s an alternative: there are six more years to plan for the country’s second bicentennial on July 9, 2016. By then, perhaps, all the renovations will be complete.

San Juan: stunning valleys and wines

The San Juan Wine Route has become one of the most traditional options for San Juan visitors. Ten wineries integrate the tour and offer very different features and suggestions. From organic wines to sparkling wines elaborated at the very heart of the mountains, visitors have a good deal to see and taste.

Located in the Center-West of the country, San Juan province offers numerous tourism and natural attractions. Undoubtedly, Ischigualasto Provincial Park, located 330 kilometres Northeast away from the province capital, is one of the most interesting places for tourists. It is considered one of the most important paleontological sites in the world, and it was declared World Natural Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2000. The site -better known as "Moon Valley" because of the exotic figures that have been modeled by wind erosion- is regarded as an enormous scientific treasure.

In the North of the province, the departments of Jáchal and Iglesia comprise a circuit worth visiting, with plenty of natural beauties and opportunities to explore the regional culture and history. In Jáchal, visiting the five flour mills is an extraordinary experience as the site was declared National Historical Monument a few years ago. The mills are constructions dating back to the 19th Century, landmarks of the most flourishing period of the productive economy of the region and representatives of the architectonic style from that period. The church of San José de Jáchal is another interesting attraction, exhibiting a life-size leather Christ brought from Potosí at the close of the 18th Century.

 In Iglesias, several sites invite visitors to enjoy natural and historic attractions.  Termas de Pismanta is a hot bath complex encompassing a hotel and natural springs located at 2,010 meters asl. Its volcanic and light waters offer healing properties. The Chapel of Achango, built by the Jesuits in the 18th Century, is a stunning colonial-style construction. On the way to Rodeo, Cuesta del Viento dam is an attractive site where the blue waters of the lake are in sharp contrast with the sepia shades of the mountain. There, it is possible to enjoy a variety of nautical sports. Other activities can also be experienced in Iglesias, including trekking, horseback riding, 4 by 4 vehicle excursions, fishing, and visiting museums exhibiting First Nations cultures.

Mendoza, the great Attraction for Investors and Tourists

Two articles published by Financial Times, the UK prestigious financial morning paper, tell about the goodness of Mendoza, a region highly chosen as tourist destination, and the possibilities for investing in this land.

The article written by the journalist Andrew Jefford, entitled "On the roof of the wine-growing world", and the article "Peace and wine" by Nick Foster from Financial Times explain the attractions of Mendoza Province related to the wine world beyond financial and tourist scope.

"This is the roof of the wine-growing world. There are vineyards in Argentina that lie 700 metres above the highest spot in the entire continent of Australia; the Mendozan average of 1,000 metres or more is loftier than almost anywhere in France. Not that you’re necessarily aware of this when you’re there, since the vineyards are a flat step on a vast stairway," states Jefford in his article.

"Perhaps the endless, importuning sky has something to do with it, for Mendoza has become the wine world’s greatest field of dreams over the past decade. The world’s rich have sought to outdo each other with breadth of vineyard plantings and wineries whose showy architecture often seems to incite Ozymandias-like hubris to overtake them. One attraction has been the freedom (rare in Europe) to plant any grape variety in any place; another has been the lure of absolute control that irrigated vines in a sunny oasis promise," continues Jefford.

One of the most valuable attractions for this journalist is the fact that Mendoza is a land with great potential for an exceptional winemaking development. In his article, Jefford also suggests some wineries and places to eat.

Peace and Wine

That was the title used by Nick Foster to describe the Malbec’s land. In his article published in the Financial Times, the journalist explains the financial advantages of investing in this winemaking paradise.

"Prices of vineyard land rose in the years following the Argentine meltdown of 2001-2002 in line with both increasing national real estate values and the rising popularity of Argentine wines abroad, particularly reds from the Mendoza region, which dominate overseas sales," says Foster.

Considering the possibility of investing in Mendoza, the journalist asks many local estate agents’ about the current situation and the possible price drop in this land. "With more foreigners moving in, however – it’s estimated that approximately 3 per cent of land in Mendoza province and a majority of its two thousand wineries are now owned by non-Argentines – residential construction is on the rise," concludes

Tren a las Nubes

An astonishing feat of engineering the Tren a las Nubes (Train to the Clouds) is a trajectory of over 220 km. It passes through the magnificent Quebrada del Toro gorge high up into the Andes mountain range. crossing the mecano-like Viaducto La Polvorilla to the little village of La Polvorilla at an altitude of some 4,200 metres (although at Abra Chorillos it goes as high as 4,475 metres). The line used to continue on to Chile via Chorillos to Socompa, crossing the third largest salt lake in the world.

The train line was originally constructed in 1948 in order to facilitate the transport of borax but today it is exclusively dedicated to tourism. It crosses 29 bridges, passes through 21 tunnels, traverses 13 viaducts, follows two enormous loops and chugs along two switchbacks. Made in Italy, the carriages possess an elegant interior with leather upholstery and polished wood. On the journey, the train passes through the small villages of Campo Quijano and San Antonio de los Cobres, where it is greeted by locals selling their handicrafts. Here you can disembark while the train doubles back. The journey takes some 15 hours from Salta and back.

The Tren a las Nubes runs several times weekly during July and August. From April to October it runs several times a month, but usually only as far as Estacion Diego de Almagro, at some 3,500 metres, during which time it is dubbed the Tren del Sol (to the sun). Tickets should be purchased in advance, single or return from La Veloz del Norte Turismo on Caseros 400, tel: +54 (0) 387 431 1010 or Movitren on Caseros 431, tel: +54 (0) 431 4984. The trains leave from Estacion Belgrano on Ameghino 690, tel: +54 (0) 387 431 0999. Go to the website Tren a las Nubes for detailed information about schedules and prices. Alternatively, it’s possible to travel up by train and return by 4WD vehicle along the Track a las Nubes. Or you can do both ways by car if you prefer. Otherwise tour operator Movitrack runs the Safari a las Nubes in a truck which travels besides the line.

Calchaquí Valleys, an ideal Place to visit in Argentina

The Calchaquí Valleys circuit is the ideal tour since nature and history are combined in a unique way to the tourist’s delight.

The Calchaquí Valleys are an extraordinary destination where history, nature, traditions, archaeology and myths create an exceptional alliance. The Calchaquí Valleys circuit is a sightseeing route par excellence. Comprising the provinces of Catamarca, Tucumán and Salta -the Argentinean Northwest -the Calchaquíes are a 520 kilometer-long system of valleys and mountains which offers a panorama of amazing landscapes, winding paths and colorful hills.

In each one of the small populations across the valleys, the ancestors left their traces outlined on the rocks; thus the ancient character is conjugated with the forest and the budding cities. Santa Maria -in Catamarca province- a colorful town known as the "Capital of the Calchaquí Valleys", was one of the main settlements of the Yokavil nation. There, remains of this culture can still be found today.

In this landscape of remarkable beauty, the unique Tucumán jungle frames part of the valleys. There lies Tafí del Valle, located at 1,976 meters above sea level and furrowed by rivers, cascades and rapids. Its lowlands shelter archaeological remains of great value. Molinos -a city founded in the mid 17th century- is famous for its adobe houses, its galleries and porches and an extensive craft tradition. Other places to visit in the region are El Mollar, a villa creased by green valleys, and Amaicha del Valle, surrounded by colorful hills, distinctive for its celebration consecrated to Pachamama (Mother Earth), a religious expression of the people of the Northwest of Argentina.

The Calchaquí Valleys are crossed by Santa María River and are spattered with several dams: Río Hondo in the Southwest and, to the North, El Cadillal, on Sali River, La Angostura on Los Sosa River and Escaba on the spring of Marapa River. The area is also surrounded by the highest peaks of the Sierras Pampeanas (the hills of Pampa region), such as Nevado de Cachi.

The region is full of pre-Columbian and colonial cities and sites, most of them intact, like Cachi, Amaicha, Tafí, Santa María, Cafayate, San Carlos, Angastaco, Molinos, and Seclantá, among others. In many of these places the Hispanic tradition is still alive in the customs, the way of speaking, the art, as well as in the architecture and religious imagery, expressing a beautiful contrast between the traditional and the modern.

Departing from Cafayate, surrounded by vineyards where the famous Torrontés wine is produced and on the route running through Quebrada de las Conchas, it is possible to visit, in addition to the Calchaquí Valleys, Los Cardones National Park, named after a giant cactus that the native inhabitants used for building their houses.
Information courtesy of the National Secretariat of Tourism.

Restaurant is open from Monday to Saturday, at midday and, at night, for groups outnumbering ten people only.

Another new alternative is Rincón Atamisque by Atamisque Winery in Valle de Uco and opened November 1, with a capacity for 35 people. Their specialty is trout – winter style, with blue cheese, with vegetables, etc.- since they have a breeding area right there in the estate. À la carte menu also offers meat and pasta for those who do not like fish.

Starters cost 16 pesos; salads, 12 pesos; main dishes with trout, 35 pesos; trout sorrentinos (filled pasta), 30 pesos; a filet steak with vegetables, 38 pesos. Among desserts, peach with ice-cream costs 6 pesos and roasted milk or bread pudding, 9 pesos.

Water, soda pop and coffee cost 4 pesos each. A glass of Catalpa wine costs 15 pesos and a glass of Atamisque Rosé is priced at 8 pesos.

This restaurant opens at midday from Tuesday to Sunday, from 12 pm to 4 pm. At nigh, it is open for reservations outnumbering 15 people only.