Recoleta Cemetery, a frequently visited tourist attraction in Buenos Aires

3 January, 2012

It covers an entire block and is enclosed by high brick walls. It is difficult to get past the gates of this renowned “city of the dead” because of the numerous guides trying to lure the foreign pedestrian to take a tour. These “barkers” reminded me of the men who stand at the doors of the strip joints in New Orleans or Las Vegas, tugging at the sleeve of the passer-by as they extol the exquisite charms that lie within.

Death, although it is required, is too common and mundane to be the first consideration for interment in Recoleta Cemetery. One must be rich and/or famous — a “somebody.” One’s survivors must get a permit and lease space from the government. They must hire an architect to design a unique vault and they spare no expenses in its materials. Some vaults look like miniature Gothic cathedrals; others like modern sculptures. Then the deceased’s descendants must keep renewing the lease or out he goes.

It’s not cheap to be a dead tourist attraction.

Because the cemetery draws such crowds, the area just outside the walls is a desirable commercial location. High priced shops, restaurants and a large, recently opened indoor mall — containing two McDonald’s — lie just a few feet from the expensive crypts of Argentina’s aristocracy.


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